LAI KOW CHYE, after spending some time in Kuala Lumpur as a chef, came back to Slim River and started Fook Seng in 1982 at his home in the Slim River New Village. He was assisted by his wife, Yong Mee Lan. They later moved to the current premises.

As there is a constant supply of wild freshwater fish, prawns and frogs in the area, Lai used them to his advantage and became famous for it. Despite Slim River Town being cut off the main traffic flow by the North-South Highway, Fook Seng has a constant stream of customers, mostly from outstation – its reputation spread mainly via word of mouth.

As teenager, his son Foon Chong (now 31) used to help in the kitchen after school and during holidays. He decided to quit school at 16 to assist his dad and is the current chef. Fook Seng also serves fried rice, noodles, etc, to cater for the lorry and tow truck drivers on a budget.

Specialty 1: Pak su kong (Hokkien, peh chiu kong) cooked in various styles

A favourite is the claypot style with onions, thick sauce and a hint of lemon or orange peel. Pak su kong (literally the "white-bearded gramps") is a fresh water catfish with very fine meat

Specialty 2: Tapah fish cooked in various styles

Steamed with soya sauce and rice wine is a favourite. Tapah is a huge carp growing to about a metre. Some people go for the head, some for the meat and some for the tail -- each part has its own distinct qualities for fish lovers

Specialty 3: Udang galah in different styles

Cheng cheng or "plain" steamed with soya sauce, rice wine and lots of ginger tasted great.

Specialty 4: Thim kai (Cantonese, frogs) in different styles

The main styles recommended here are kungpo (fried with dried chilli), keong chung (fried with ginger and spring onions) and steamed.

Other remarks

• Dishes are subject to availability of fish, prawns, meats and vegetables. Call first to avoid disappointment.